How much power does your PC actually need?

Pick your parts below. We estimate real sustained draw — not just TDP stickers — add headroom for GPU transient spikes, and recommend a PSU size that won't shut down mid-game.

Your components
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Estimated peak system draw
Recommended PSU
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    Good units at this wattage
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    How this calculator works

    Most PSU calculators add up TDP numbers from spec sheets. That underestimates modern hardware: current Intel CPUs can sustain far above their base "processor base power", and modern GPUs produce millisecond transient spikes well above their rated board power. We use realistic sustained draw figures per component, then size the PSU so your typical gaming load sits near 50–60% of capacity — the efficiency sweet spot — with room for spikes.

    Why not just buy the biggest PSU?

    Oversizing wastes money and slightly hurts efficiency at idle. Undersizing risks shutdowns during GPU load spikes. The recommendation here targets the middle: enough headroom for transients and future upgrades, without paying for capacity you'll never touch.

    What about ATX 3.x and the 16-pin connector?

    If you pick a GeForce RTX 40 or 50 series card, look for a PSU with a native 12V-2x6 (16-pin) connector — that's the "ATX 3.0 / 3.1" label on the box. Adapters work, but a native cable is cleaner and avoids seating issues that caused melted connectors on early cards.

    Is 80 Plus rating about quality?

    80 Plus (Bronze/Gold/Platinum) measures efficiency, not build quality — but in practice, Gold-rated units from reputable brands tend to use better components. For a gaming PC, a Gold unit from a known series is the sane default.

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